How to Rock Climb at Smith and Bybee Lakes Portland

Rock climbing at Smith and Bybee Lakes in Portland, Oregon, offers a unique blend of urban accessibility and natural terrain that makes it one of the most underrated climbing destinations in the Pacific Northwest. Nestled within the 2,000-acre Smith and Bybee Wetlands Natural Area, this location is not traditionally known for vertical rock faces—but thanks to a growing community of climbers and creative use of existing boulders, cliffs, and engineered climbing features, it has evolved into a vibrant, low-impact climbing hub for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. Unlike commercial climbing gyms or remote alpine crags, Smith and Bybee Lakes provides a serene, ecologically rich environment where climbers can develop skills without the crowds, while still enjoying the benefits of Portland’s urban infrastructure.

The significance of climbing here extends beyond recreation. It represents a shift in how urban outdoor spaces are reimagined—transforming wetlands and reclaimed land into functional, sustainable recreation zones. With minimal environmental disruption and strong community stewardship, Smith and Bybee Lakes demonstrates how responsible climbing can coexist with conservation. Whether you’re learning to tie a figure-eight knot for the first time or refining your crack technique on basalt outcrops, this location offers a rare opportunity to climb in a protected natural setting that’s just minutes from downtown Portland.

This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to safely and effectively rock climb at Smith and Bybee Lakes. From preparing your gear to understanding local regulations, from reading the terrain to connecting with the climbing community, this comprehensive tutorial ensures you’ll not only climb safely—but respectfully and confidently—in one of Portland’s most hidden outdoor gems.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Research and Plan Your Visit

Before heading out, spend time researching the specific areas within Smith and Bybee Lakes that are suitable for climbing. While the wetlands are primarily known for birdwatching and kayaking, several rocky outcrops and basalt formations along the eastern and southern edges of the lakes have been informally developed as climbing zones. The most popular climbing areas include the “North Basin Rocks,” “Cedar Ridge,” and the “Lakeside Slabs.” These zones are not marked on official park maps, so rely on community-generated resources like Mountain Project, local climbing forums, and Instagram hashtags such as

SmithAndBybeeClimb.

Check the weather forecast and water levels. The wetlands are sensitive to seasonal flooding, and some climbing areas may be submerged or muddy after heavy rain. Aim for dry, mild conditions—spring and early fall are ideal. Avoid climbing during nesting seasons (March–July) when bird activity is high, to minimize disturbance to local wildlife.

Plan your route. Entry points to the climbing zones are best accessed via the Wetlands Trailhead off NE Columbia Blvd. Park in the designated lot and follow the main trail east until you reach the first rocky ridge. Use a GPS app like Gaia GPS or AllTrails to mark your location. Download offline maps in case you lose cell service.

Step 2: Gather the Right Gear

Unlike sport climbing at crags like Smith Rock, Smith and Bybee Lakes is primarily a bouldering and top-rope area with limited bolted routes. You’ll need minimal but essential gear:

• Bouldering mat (crash pad) – Even small falls can be dangerous on uneven rock or root systems. A compact, portable crash pad is critical.
• Climbing shoes – Choose sticky rubber soles for better friction on the basalt and sandstone surfaces.
• Chalk and chalk bag – The rock here can be dusty; chalk improves grip and reduces slippage.
• Helmet – Loose rock is common. A lightweight climbing helmet is non-negotiable.
• Top-rope setup (if applicable) – If you plan to set up top ropes, bring a 60m dynamic rope, harness, belay device, and locking carabiners. Anchor points are natural (trees, large boulders), so learn how to build safe, redundant anchors.
• First aid kit – Include bandages, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and blister care. Insect bites and minor scrapes are common.
• Water and snacks – No concessions exist on-site. Bring at least 2 liters of water per person.

Avoid bringing unnecessary gear like quickdraws or trad gear unless you’re experienced with natural protection. Most routes are short, under 20 feet, and designed for bouldering.

Step 3: Scout and Assess the Climbing Zones

Once you arrive, spend 15–20 minutes walking the perimeter of the climbing areas. Look for:

• Loose or crumbling rock – Avoid any surface that shifts under light pressure.
• Vegetation encroachment – Overgrown roots or ivy can obscure holds or create trip hazards.
• Signs of wildlife – If you see bird nests, animal tracks, or fresh droppings, move to another area.
• Existing chalk marks – These indicate active climbing routes. Follow the chalk to find established problems.

Do not create new routes on untouched rock. Respect the “leave no trace” ethic by not chalking natural features or carving holds. If you find a promising line, test it gently with your hands before committing to a full ascent.

Step 4: Set Up Safely

If you’re bouldering:

• Place your crash pad on flat, stable ground, avoiding slopes or wet soil.
• Have a spotter stand close—someone who can guide your fall away from rocks or roots.
• Clear the landing zone of sticks, glass, and debris before climbing.

If you’re top-roping:

• Use only mature, healthy trees (minimum 8-inch diameter) for anchors. Wrap the rope around the trunk using a tree-saver strap to prevent bark damage.
• Never tie directly to a tree with a knot—it can girdle and kill the tree over time.
• Use two independent anchor points if possible, such as two trees or a tree and a large boulder.
• Always double-check your knots (figure-eight follow-through) and carabiner gates before climbing.

Never climb alone. Even experienced climbers should have a partner. In case of injury, having someone to call for help or assist in evacuation is essential.

Step 5: Climb with Technique and Awareness

Smith and Bybee’s rock is often gritty and friction-dependent. Unlike the sharp edges of granite, the basalt here rewards footwork and body positioning over strength. Focus on:

• Quiet feet – Place your toes precisely on small edges. Avoid stomping.
• Weight transfer – Keep your center of gravity over your feet to reduce arm fatigue.
• Dynamic movement – Many problems require small jumps or lunges. Practice controlled motion.
• Reading the rock – Look for subtle color changes, cracks, or texture shifts that indicate holds.

Take breaks. The humidity near the lakes can be deceptively taxing. Hydrate every 20 minutes, even if you don’t feel thirsty.

Step 6: Clean Up and Leave No Trace

After climbing:

• Pick up all chalk marks you made with a damp cloth or brush. Do not leave chalk on natural rock surfaces.
• Remove all trash, including food wrappers, tape, and empty water bottles.
• Check your shoes and gear for seeds or plant matter. Clean them before leaving to prevent invasive species spread.
• Do not carve initials, paint symbols, or attach bolts. This is a protected natural area.
• Report any damage, vandalism, or unsafe conditions to the Portland Bureau of Environmental Services (BES) via their online form or phone line.

Leave the area exactly as you found it—or better. The future of climbing here depends on responsible behavior.

Best Practices

Rock climbing at Smith and Bybee Lakes requires a mindset that prioritizes environmental ethics over personal achievement. Unlike sport climbing destinations where bolting is common, this site is a living ecosystem. Here are the best practices that ensure your climbing experience is sustainable, respectful, and enjoyable for everyone.

Practice the Seven Principles of Leave No Trace

These principles are non-negotiable at Smith and Bybee:

1. Plan ahead and prepare – Know the rules, weather, and access restrictions. Don’t show up unprepared.
2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces – Stick to trails and established climbing zones. Avoid trampling wetland vegetation.
3. Dispose of waste properly – Pack out everything you bring in. Use a portable toilet or dig a cathole 6–8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water if needed.
4. Leave what you find – Do not remove rocks, plants, or artifacts. Even small souvenirs harm the ecosystem.
5. Minimize campfire impact – Fires are prohibited in the wetlands. Use a stove if cooking.
6. Respect wildlife – Observe from a distance. Never feed animals. If you see a nesting bird, stop climbing immediately and retreat.
7. Be considerate of others – Keep noise low. Yield to hikers and kayakers. Share the space.

Respect Seasonal Closures and Wildlife Protection Zones

The Portland Bureau of Environmental Services enforces seasonal closures from March through July to protect migratory and nesting birds, including great blue herons, ospreys, and red-winged blackbirds. During this period, climbing is prohibited within 300 feet of known nesting trees. Signs are posted at trailheads, but always check the BES website for updates before your visit.

If you encounter an active nest, mark the area with a small flag (bring your own) and notify the BES immediately. Do not attempt to photograph or approach the nest. Your restraint helps preserve the area’s biodiversity.

Use Eco-Friendly Products

Many traditional chalks contain magnesium carbonate and additives that can leach into soil and water. Opt for eco-friendly chalk like Mad Rock Lifeguard or Black Diamond Eco Chalk, which are biodegradable and non-toxic. Avoid liquid chalk with alcohol-based formulas near waterways.

Use reusable water bottles and avoid single-use plastics. Bring a small trash bag to collect any litter you find—even if it’s not yours.

Build Community, Not Competition

Smith and Bybee Lakes is not a competition zone. It’s a shared, quiet space for learning and reflection. Avoid loud music, excessive chalk dust clouds, or crowding popular boulders. If someone is working a problem, give them space. Offer encouragement, not criticism.

Join local climbing groups like the Portland Climbers Coalition or the Oregon Climbers Association. These organizations host clean-up days, route maintenance events, and educational workshops. Participating helps ensure the area remains open and accessible.

Know Your Limits

Many climbers underestimate the physical demands of outdoor bouldering on uneven terrain. Smith and Bybee’s rock is not polished or predictable. Falls can be unpredictable due to hidden roots, loose gravel, or hidden depressions.

Always warm up with dynamic stretches. Start with easier problems before progressing. If you’re new to climbing, consider a guided session with a certified instructor from a Portland-based guide service like Vertical Endeavors or Portland Rock Gym.

Never attempt a route beyond your ability just because others are doing it. Climbing is a personal journey. Progress at your own pace.

Tools and Resources

Success at Smith and Bybee Lakes depends not just on physical skill, but on access to accurate, up-to-date information. Below are the essential tools and resources that every climber should use before and during their visit.

Online Route Databases

• Mountain Project – The most comprehensive database for climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. Search “Smith and Bybee Lakes” for user-submitted boulder problems, photos, and difficulty ratings (V0–V7). Filter by “bouldering” and “Portland” to find the most relevant entries.
• Rock Climbing.com – Offers community reviews and recent updates on access changes or route conditions. Check the “Oregon” forum for discussions specific to Smith and Bybee.
• Gaia GPS – Download the Smith and Bybee Wetlands map layer and overlay it with user-created climbing waypoints. The app works offline and is invaluable for navigation in areas with no cell service.

Mobile Apps for Safety and Navigation

• AllTrails – Provides trail maps, user photos, and recent activity logs. Useful for finding the safest access routes to climbing zones.
• Windy – Monitors wind speed and humidity levels. High winds can make bouldering dangerous; this app helps you choose the best day.
• First Aid by Red Cross – Download the free app for step-by-step first aid instructions for cuts, sprains, or heat exhaustion.
• iNaturalist – Identify plants and wildlife you encounter. Helps you avoid sensitive habitats and learn about the ecosystem you’re climbing in.

Local Organizations and Educational Programs

• Portland Climbers Coalition – A volunteer group dedicated to preserving climbing access in the Portland area. They offer free workshops on anchor building, environmental ethics, and climbing technique. Visit their website to join a monthly clean-up.
• Oregon Climbers Association – Advocates for sustainable climbing access statewide. Their “Climb Responsibly” campaign includes downloadable guides and stickers for your gear.
• Portland Bureau of Environmental Services (BES) – The official governing body for the wetlands. Check their website for closures, permits (if required), and educational materials on wetland conservation.
• Vertical Endeavors Portland – Offers outdoor climbing clinics that include field trips to Smith and Bybee. Great for beginners seeking guided instruction.

Recommended Reading

• “The Mountain is My Friend” by Peter Croft – A philosophical guide to climbing ethics and environmental awareness.
• “Leave No Trace: A Guide to the New Wilderness Etiquette” by L. D. Smith – The definitive text on minimizing impact in natural areas.
• “Bouldering: The Complete Guide to Indoor and Outdoor Climbing” by Andy Chetwyn – Excellent for technique and safety protocols.

Equipment Suppliers in Portland

Support local businesses that prioritize sustainability:

• Outdoor Research – Based in Seattle, but has a Portland retail partner that stocks eco-chalk and tree-saver straps.
• Portland Rock Gym – Offers gear rentals, including crash pads and helmets, for visitors who don’t own equipment.
• Wilderness Supply Co. – Local shop specializing in biodegradable climbing products and reusable gear.

Real Examples

Real-world examples illustrate how climbers have successfully and responsibly enjoyed Smith and Bybee Lakes. These stories highlight the diversity of climbers who use the area and the importance of community stewardship.

Example 1: The First-Time Climber

Maya, a 22-year-old college student from Portland, had never climbed outdoors before. She joined a Portland Climbers Coalition beginner workshop focused on Smith and Bybee. Armed with a rented crash pad and helmet, she learned how to spot, read rock texture, and build a tree anchor. She climbed her first boulder problem—a V1 called “Wetland Whisper”—and described the experience as “calm, grounding, and unlike anything in the gym.”

Afterward, Maya helped clean up chalk and trash left by previous visitors. She now volunteers monthly and teaches her friends the Leave No Trace principles. Her story shows how one person’s curiosity can spark long-term environmental care.

Example 2: The Experienced Climber Who Changed His Approach

James, a 38-year-old climber with 15 years of experience, used to bolt new routes on natural rock. He visited Smith and Bybee in 2021 and was confronted by a BES ranger after installing a bolt on a popular slab. Instead of being fined, he was invited to a community meeting.

There, he learned about the wetlands’ ecological sensitivity and the history of bird nesting in the area. He was moved by the stories of local conservationists. James now leads “Ethical Climbing Tours” through Smith and Bybee, teaching others how to climb without altering the rock. He even helped design a trail guide for climbers that includes wildlife viewing spots and quiet zones.

Example 3: The Community Clean-Up Success

In spring 2023, a group of 30 climbers organized a “Clean the Crags” event at Smith and Bybee. They collected over 200 pounds of trash—including plastic bottles, food wrappers, and discarded climbing tape. They also removed 12 unauthorized chalk markings and repainted faded trail signs using biodegradable paint.

The event was covered by local media, and as a result, the Portland Parks & Recreation department allocated $10,000 for permanent trail markers and educational signage. Today, the site has clearer access points and fewer incidents of vandalism.

Example 4: The Birdwatcher Who Became a Climber

Dr. Helen Ruiz, a biologist studying wetland birds, initially opposed climbing at Smith and Bybee. After witnessing climbers respectfully avoid nesting zones and participate in clean-ups, she changed her stance. She now collaborates with the Portland Climbers Coalition to create “Bird-Safe Climbing Zones” maps that show where climbing is allowed and where it must be avoided.

Her research found that climbers who follow the rules have no measurable impact on bird populations. Her findings have been published in the Journal of Urban Conservation, helping shift public perception of climbing from a threat to a partner in conservation.

FAQs

Is rock climbing allowed at Smith and Bybee Lakes?

Yes, rock climbing is permitted in designated areas, but only for bouldering and top-roping. Bolting, rappelling, and sport climbing are prohibited. Always check current restrictions with the Portland Bureau of Environmental Services before climbing.

Do I need a permit to climb at Smith and Bybee Lakes?

No permit is required for recreational climbing. However, organized groups of 10 or more must notify the BES in advance. Educational and conservation groups may apply for special use permits for workshops or clean-ups.

Can I bring my dog?

Dogs are allowed on trails but must be leashed at all times. They are not permitted in climbing zones due to the risk of disturbing wildlife and damaging fragile vegetation.

Are there restrooms at Smith and Bybee Lakes?

No public restrooms are available on-site. Use the facilities at the trailhead parking lot before entering the wetlands. For emergencies, dig a cathole 6–8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water and trails.

What’s the best time of year to climb?

Spring (April–May) and fall (September–October) offer the most stable weather and least wildlife disturbance. Avoid summer (June–August) due to heat and nesting season closures.

Can I climb in the rain?

Do not climb on wet rock. Basalt becomes extremely slippery and dangerous when damp. Wait at least 24 hours after rain before attempting to climb. Wet conditions also increase erosion risk.

Are there any climbing routes marked with bolts?

No. All climbing at Smith and Bybee is done on natural rock with no permanent bolts. Any existing bolts are considered illegal and should be reported to the BES.

How do I report damage or illegal activity?

Contact the Portland Bureau of Environmental Services at 503-823-7525 or submit a report online at www.portland.gov/bes. Include photos, location coordinates, and a description of the issue.

Can I teach a climbing class here?

Yes, but you must coordinate with the Portland Climbers Coalition and obtain approval from BES. Educational groups are encouraged, but must follow strict environmental protocols.

Is there cell service in the climbing areas?

Cell service is spotty. Download offline maps and carry a satellite communicator if you plan to climb alone. Always inform someone of your plans before heading out.

Conclusion

Climbing at Smith and Bybee Lakes is more than a physical activity—it’s an act of mindful engagement with nature. Unlike the adrenaline-fueled crags of Smith Rock or the crowded gyms of downtown Portland, this site offers a quiet, reflective space where technique, ethics, and ecology converge. The rock here doesn’t demand strength; it demands awareness. The birds don’t care about your V-grade; they care whether you respect their home.

By following the steps outlined in this guide—preparing properly, using eco-friendly gear, leaving no trace, and engaging with the community—you become part of a growing movement that proves outdoor recreation and environmental protection are not opposing forces. They are partners.

As more people discover Smith and Bybee Lakes, the responsibility to protect it grows. Your actions today—how you tie your knot, where you place your crash pad, whether you pick up someone else’s trash—will determine whether this place remains open, wild, and accessible for future generations of climbers, birdwatchers, and nature lovers.

So lace up your shoes, grab your chalk bag, and step onto the rock with humility. The wetlands are listening. And they’re grateful you chose to climb with care.