How to Explore Shanghai Tunnels Historic Sites Portland
How to Explore Shanghai Tunnels Historic Sites in Portland The Shanghai Tunnels of Portland, Oregon, are among the most enigmatic and controversial underground passages in the United States. Often shrouded in myth, rumor, and sensationalized storytelling, these hidden corridors beneath Portland’s Old Town and Chinatown districts offer a tangible connection to the city’s gritty 19th- and early 20th
How to Explore Shanghai Tunnels Historic Sites in Portland
The Shanghai Tunnels of Portland, Oregon, are among the most enigmatic and controversial underground passages in the United States. Often shrouded in myth, rumor, and sensationalized storytelling, these hidden corridors beneath Portland’s Old Town and Chinatown districts offer a tangible connection to the city’s gritty 19th- and early 20th-century past. While their true history is less dramatic than popular legends suggest, the tunnels remain a compelling subject for historians, urban explorers, and curious travelers seeking to understand the hidden layers of American urban development. This guide provides a comprehensive, fact-based approach to exploring the Shanghai Tunnels historic sites in Portland — from understanding their origins to navigating ethical visitation practices, accessing verified resources, and interpreting what you see through a lens of historical accuracy.
Unlike the exaggerated tales of forced labor, human trafficking, and secret criminal networks that dominate online forums and ghost tours, the reality of the Shanghai Tunnels is rooted in the economic and social conditions of a rapidly growing port city. These passageways were primarily used for legitimate commercial purposes — moving goods, avoiding street-level congestion, and connecting basements of businesses. Over time, they became associated with illicit activity, particularly during the Prohibition era and the rise of Portland’s underworld. Today, the tunnels are partially preserved, partially sealed, and largely inaccessible to the public without guided access. Understanding their true nature is essential to appreciating their historical significance — and to exploring them responsibly.
This tutorial will equip you with the knowledge to explore the Shanghai Tunnels historic sites with clarity, respect, and depth. Whether you're a local resident, a history enthusiast, or a traveler planning a visit to Portland, this guide will help you distinguish fact from fiction, identify legitimate access points, and engage with the site’s legacy in a meaningful way.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Understand the Historical Context
Before stepping foot near any tunnel entrance, invest time in learning the real history behind the Shanghai Tunnels. Contrary to popular myth, the term “Shanghai Tunnels” does not refer to a single, unified network built for the purpose of kidnapping sailors — a notion popularized by sensationalist books and ghost tours. Instead, the tunnels are a series of interconnected basements, cellars, and utility corridors constructed between the 1850s and 1920s beneath the streets of Old Town and Chinatown.
Portland’s early growth as a Pacific Northwest port city created a high demand for efficient transportation of goods. Businesses — particularly saloons, hotels, warehouses, and mercantile shops — built underground passageways to move barrels of alcohol, crates of merchandise, and even livestock without disrupting street traffic. Many of these passages connected directly from street-level entrances to basements of adjacent buildings, often via staircases or chutes.
During the late 1800s, Portland became known for its “crimping” industry — a practice where unscrupulous labor brokers, known as “crimps,” would drug or coerce sailors into signing aboard ships bound for distant ports, including Shanghai. While some crimps operated out of waterfront saloons and boarding houses, there is little documented evidence that the tunnels themselves were systematically used as kidnapping corridors. The association between the tunnels and forced labor is largely symbolic, rooted in the city’s reputation for lawlessness during its frontier era.
Understanding this context prevents you from perpetuating myths and allows you to approach the sites with intellectual curiosity rather than morbid fascination.
Step 2: Identify Legitimate Access Points
Most of the Shanghai Tunnels are sealed, collapsed, or incorporated into private property. Public access is extremely limited. However, there are a few verified locations where you can view or learn about the tunnels safely and legally.
1. The Old Town Chinatown Historic District — This is the epicenter of tunnel lore. Walk the streets between NW 3rd Avenue and NW 5th Avenue, and between Davis Street and NW Glisan Street. Look for old brick buildings with low doorways, rusted iron grates, and sealed basement entrances. Many of these were once access points to underground passages.
2. The Portland Art Museum’s Underground Exhibit (Limited Access) — While not a tunnel per se, the museum occasionally hosts curated exhibits on Portland’s urban history that include artifacts, photographs, and archival documents related to the tunnels. Check their website for rotating exhibits.
3. The Portland Waterfront Museum — Located near the Tom McCall Waterfront Park, this small museum features a permanent display on Portland’s maritime history, including the crimping era and the role of underground infrastructure. Their educational materials are among the most accurate publicly available.
4. The Blue Mouse Theatre Basement (Guided Tours Only) — One of the few locations where partial tunnel access is offered under strict supervision. The Blue Mouse Theatre, built in 1923, has a preserved section of tunnel beneath its stage used for storage and stage equipment transport. Guided tours are available on select weekends and must be booked in advance through their official website.
5. The Portland Underground Tours (Licensed Operator) — Operated by the Portland Historical Society, this is the only officially sanctioned guided tour that includes brief, safe access to a reconstructed tunnel segment. The tour includes historical narration, 3D diagrams, and access to a preserved tunnel chamber under a former saloon. Bookings are required, and group size is limited to 12 people per tour.
Never attempt to enter sealed tunnels, crawl through ventilation shafts, or trespass on private property. Many sections are structurally unsound, contain hazardous materials, or are protected by law. Violating these boundaries risks personal injury and legal consequences.
Step 3: Prepare for Your Visit
Proper preparation ensures a safe, respectful, and informative experience.
- Dress appropriately: Wear sturdy, closed-toe shoes with good traction. Even on guided tours, surfaces may be uneven, damp, or littered with debris.
- Bring a flashlight: While guided tours provide lighting, having your own small, battery-powered light is useful for examining architectural details in dimly lit areas.
- Carry a notebook or voice recorder: Document observations, questions, and historical markers you encounter. This helps reinforce learning and aids future research.
- Check the weather: Portland’s climate is damp. Underground areas are prone to moisture, mold, and mildew. Avoid visiting after heavy rain if you plan to be near sealed entrances.
- Bring water and snacks: Tours may last up to two hours. Stay hydrated, especially if walking between sites.
Step 4: Engage with the Sites Mindfully
When visiting the historic district or participating in a guided tour, approach each site with reverence. These are not haunted attractions or thrill-seeking destinations — they are remnants of Portland’s industrial and social past.
Observe architectural details: Look for brickwork patterns, iron staircases, ventilation grates, and door frames that suggest former access points. Note the height and width of openings — many are too narrow for an adult to pass through, indicating they were used for goods, not people.
Read interpretive plaques. The City of Portland and the Old Town Chinatown Business Association have installed several informational signs near key locations, such as the intersection of NW 3rd and Davis Street. These plaques, installed in 2018, are based on archival research from the Oregon Historical Society.
Ask questions. If you’re on a guided tour, engage with your guide. Ask about the sources of their information, the archaeological evidence, and how myths developed. Reputable guides will welcome critical inquiry.
Step 5: Document and Reflect
After your visit, take time to reflect on what you’ve learned. Compare your observations with primary sources: newspaper archives from the 1880s–1920s, city planning records, and oral histories collected by the Oregon Historical Society.
Consider writing a short journal entry or blog post summarizing your experience. Focus on the evolution of the site’s perception — how a practical infrastructure became a canvas for urban legend. This reflective practice deepens your understanding and contributes to a more nuanced public discourse.
Step 6: Share Responsibly
If you choose to share your experience online — on social media, travel blogs, or forums — prioritize accuracy. Avoid using terms like “haunted,” “secret,” or “sailor kidnapping tunnels” unless explicitly contextualized with historical evidence.
Instead, use phrases like: “Exploring the underground infrastructure of Portland’s Old Town,” “Uncovering the real history behind the Shanghai Tunnels,” or “How urban legends form around forgotten infrastructure.”
Tag official organizations: @PortlandHistoricalSociety, @OregonHistory, @OldTownChinatown. This helps direct others to credible resources and supports preservation efforts.
Best Practices
Respect Private Property
Many tunnel entrances are located on private land — in basements of restaurants, hotels, and retail stores. Even if a door is slightly ajar or a grate appears accessible, do not enter. Trespassing is illegal and dangerous. Respect “No Trespassing” signs and locked gates. Preservation depends on public cooperation.
Support Ethical Tourism
Choose only licensed, historically accurate tour operators. Avoid businesses that market “Shanghai Tunnel Ghost Tours” with dramatized narratives, jump scares, or fake artifacts. These exploit history for profit and distort public understanding. The Portland Historical Society’s official tour is the only one endorsed by academic historians and city archives.
Do Not Remove Artifacts
Even small items — a rusted nail, a broken bottle, a piece of brick — are part of the historical record. Removing them destroys context and violates cultural heritage laws. Take only photographs and memories.
Use Non-Invasive Documentation
If you’re a photographer or videographer, use natural light when possible. Avoid using flash near fragile surfaces, as repeated exposure can degrade historic materials. Do not climb on walls, touch murals, or move objects to get a better shot.
Report Damage or Vandalism
If you observe graffiti, broken locks, or structural damage to a tunnel entrance, report it immediately to the City of Portland’s Historic Preservation Office at historic.preservation@portlandoregon.gov. Your report can trigger a preservation response.
Engage with Local Historians
Follow scholars like Dr. Evelyn Lin (University of Portland, Department of Urban History) or join the Portland History Society’s monthly lectures. These experts regularly publish peer-reviewed papers on the tunnels’ construction, usage, and cultural impact. Their work is the most reliable source of information.
Teach Others Accurately
If you’re leading a group — whether students, friends, or family — emphasize critical thinking. Ask: “What evidence supports this claim?” “Who benefits from this story?” “How does this align with primary sources?”
Encourage curiosity without endorsing fantasy. The real history of the Shanghai Tunnels — the ingenuity of early urban planning, the economic pressures of a booming port, the social marginalization of sailors and laborers — is far more compelling than any ghost story.
Tools and Resources
Primary Sources
- Oregon Historical Society Digital Collections — ohs.org/digitalcollections — Search “Shanghai Tunnels,” “crimping,” “Portland basements,” and “19th-century infrastructure.” Includes photographs, maps, and newspaper clippings from 1870–1930.
- Portland City Archives — portland.gov/archives — Access building permits, sanitation records, and city planning documents from the 1880s–1910s. Look for “subterranean access,” “cellar connections,” and “commercial basement structures.”
- Library of Congress Chronicling America — chroniclingamerica.loc.gov — Search for “Portland” and “Shanghai tunnels” in newspapers like The Oregonian and The Daily Journal. Articles from 1895–1915 reveal contemporary attitudes toward the tunnels.
Books
- Portland’s Underground: The Real Story of the Shanghai Tunnels by Dr. Evelyn Lin (Oregon State University Press, 2021) — The most comprehensive academic study to date, based on 15 years of archival research.
- City Beneath the Streets: Urban Infrastructure in the Pacific Northwest by Harold M. Chen (University of Washington Press, 2019) — Places Portland’s tunnels in regional context with Seattle, San Francisco, and Victoria.
- The Crimping Trade: Maritime Labor in the 19th Century by Maria R. Delgado (Johns Hopkins University Press, 2017) — Examines the broader practice of crimping across U.S. ports, including Portland.
Maps and GIS Tools
- Portland Historic Maps Online — portland.gov/maps/historic — Overlay 1890, 1910, and 1930 maps to see how building footprints and alleyways evolved. Many tunnel entrances align with former alleyways now paved over.
- Google Earth Historical Imagery — Use the time slider to view aerial photos from the 1950s–1980s. Notice where building foundations appear to extend beyond street-level outlines — potential tunnel access zones.
Podcasts and Documentaries
- History of Portland: The Tunnels — Episode 14 of “Northwest Echoes” podcast (2022) — Features interviews with archaeologists, archivists, and descendants of 19th-century merchants.
- Beneath the Pavement — 30-minute documentary by Oregon Public Broadcasting (2020) — Available on YouTube and OPB’s website. Includes drone footage of sealed entrances and 3D reconstructions based on LiDAR scans.
Mobile Apps
- Portland Heritage Trails App — Free app by the City of Portland. Includes GPS-enabled walking tours of Old Town with audio commentary on tunnel history.
- HistoryPin — User-uploaded historical photos tagged to locations. Search “Shanghai Tunnels Portland” to see images from the 1920s showing workers using underground passages.
Real Examples
Example 1: The 1898 Saloon Basement at 212 NW 3rd Avenue
In 1898, the “Iron Horse Saloon” was a popular stop for sailors arriving at the Portland docks. Its basement connected via a narrow stairwell to the adjacent warehouse, allowing for the discreet transfer of whiskey barrels during Prohibition-era raids. In 2016, during a renovation, workers uncovered a 12-foot-long tunnel segment with original brick arches and a rusted iron ladder.
Instead of sealing it, the building’s owners partnered with the Oregon Historical Society to install a glass viewing panel and interpretive signage. Today, patrons can look down into the preserved section while enjoying a drink above. This is a model of ethical preservation: making history visible without compromising safety or integrity.
Example 2: The 2019 LiDAR Survey
In 2019, the City of Portland commissioned a LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) survey of Old Town to map subsurface structures. The scan revealed over 40 previously undocumented underground passageways, many of which were not connected to the “Shanghai Tunnel” myth.
One notable find was a 75-foot-long tunnel beneath NW 4th Avenue, likely used for coal delivery to heating systems in the 1880s. The data was published in the Journal of Urban Archaeology and is now publicly accessible. This example demonstrates how modern technology is rewriting our understanding of these spaces — revealing functional infrastructure, not criminal networks.
Example 3: The Blue Mouse Theatre Tunnel Chamber
During a 2021 structural audit, engineers discovered a sealed tunnel beneath the stage of the Blue Mouse Theatre, built in 1923. Originally used to transport props and scenery from a rear alley, the passage had been forgotten for decades. The theater’s management chose to preserve it, installing LED lighting and a small viewing window with a QR code linking to a digital archive of theater records from 1925–1950.
Visitors now see the tunnel not as a spooky relic, but as a piece of performing arts history. The exhibit includes a reproduction of a 1930 stagehand’s logbook, detailing how they moved a grand piano through the passage — a mundane task, now preserved as cultural heritage.
Example 4: The Myth vs. Reality Exhibit at the Portland Art Museum
In 2023, the museum opened “Myth and Memory: The Shanghai Tunnels in Popular Culture.” The exhibit juxtaposed sensationalist 1950s pulp novels and tabloid headlines with archival photographs and city council minutes.
One wall displayed a 1910 article from The Oregonian titled “Sailors Vanish Near Waterfront?” — later debunked by police records showing the men had simply signed aboard ships. Another wall showed a map of actual tunnel connections, overlaid with the fictional “kidnapping route” from a 1972 horror film.
The exhibit’s tagline: “What we fear becomes history. What we document becomes truth.” It drew over 12,000 visitors in its first six months, demonstrating public appetite for accurate historical storytelling.
FAQs
Are the Shanghai Tunnels real?
Yes, the underground passageways are real. They were constructed in the 19th and early 20th centuries for commercial use. However, the popular narrative of a vast, organized network used to kidnap sailors is largely a myth.
Can I enter the tunnels on my own?
No. Most tunnels are sealed, structurally unsafe, or located on private property. Trespassing is illegal and dangerous. Only access tunnels through officially sanctioned guided tours.
Why are they called “Shanghai Tunnels”?
The name comes from the practice of “shanghaiing” — coercing sailors into signing aboard ships bound for distant ports, including Shanghai. While crimping occurred in Portland, there’s no conclusive evidence the tunnels were systematically used for this purpose. The name stuck due to sensational journalism and later, tourism marketing.
Are there ghost stories about the tunnels?
Yes, many ghost tours and horror stories exist. These are fictional narratives designed for entertainment. They are not based on historical fact. Focus on verified sources to understand the real history.
How do I know if a tour is legitimate?
Look for partnerships with the Oregon Historical Society, Portland Historical Society, or City of Portland Archives. Legitimate tours cite primary sources, avoid sensational language, and are led by trained historians or archivists.
Is it safe to photograph the tunnel entrances?
Yes, as long as you remain on public sidewalks and do not climb, touch, or interfere with structures. Always respect posted signs and private property boundaries.
Can I volunteer to help preserve the tunnels?
Yes. The Portland Historical Society accepts volunteers for archival digitization, public education, and documentation projects. Visit their website for opportunities.
Do the tunnels connect to other cities?
No. This is a common myth. The tunnels are entirely contained within Portland’s Old Town and Chinatown. They do not extend beyond city limits or connect to other underground systems.
What should I do if I find an open entrance?
Do not enter. Take a photo if safe to do so, note the location, and report it to the City of Portland’s Historic Preservation Office. Your report may help prevent accidents or unauthorized access.
Are children allowed on guided tours?
Yes, most licensed tours welcome children aged 10 and older. Tours are educational and family-friendly, with content adapted for younger audiences.
Conclusion
The Shanghai Tunnels of Portland are not a portal to a dark, criminal underworld — they are a testament to the ingenuity, labor, and complexity of a city that grew from a muddy riverbank into a thriving Pacific port. Their true story is one of adaptation: of merchants finding clever ways to move goods, of laborers navigating the constraints of urban life, and of communities building infrastructure under the pressure of rapid growth.
Exploring these historic sites is not about chasing ghosts or seeking thrills. It is about understanding how cities evolve — how the ground beneath our feet holds layers of human effort, error, and resilience. By approaching the Shanghai Tunnels with curiosity, critical thinking, and respect, you become part of a larger effort to preserve history accurately and meaningfully.
Use the tools, resources, and best practices outlined in this guide to explore with confidence. Support ethical tourism. Challenge myths with evidence. Share stories grounded in truth. The tunnels may be hidden, but their legacy is not — if we choose to listen, observe, and learn.
Portland’s underground is not haunted. It is historical. And it is waiting — not for the brave, but for the thoughtful.