Flavours of the Hills: A Foodie’s Journey Through Khasi Culinary Traditions

Introduction: Tasting the Soul of Meghalaya

Meghalaya, the "Abode of Clouds", is not only known for its stunning landscapes and waterfalls but also for its delicious, rich, and authentic tribal cuisine. Among the many ethnic groups that call Meghalaya home, the Khasi community is known for its distinctive culinary traditions that reflect their deep connection to the land and nature. Their dishes are often simple but full of flavor, made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients and cooked using time-honored techniques.

If you’re planning a trip to this beautiful northeastern state, exploring traditional Khasi cuisine should be at the top of your list. In fact, many dishes from this cuisine are considered the best food of Meghalaya, enjoyed both by locals and tourists alike.

Where to Start: Shillong's Culinary Scene

Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, is the heart of Khasi culture and cuisine. From street stalls and traditional kitchens to chic cafés serving ethnic platters, the city is full of surprises for your taste buds. For food lovers, exploring the best places to eat in Shillong is like diving into a delicious world of flavors, spices, and indigenous cooking styles that are unique to this region.

Let’s now dive deep into the dishes, ingredients, food customs, and best local eateries that make Khasi cuisine a must-try.

The Essence of Khasi Cuisine

What Makes Khasi Food Unique?

Khasi cuisine focuses on freshness, simplicity, and seasonal ingredients. There’s limited use of oil or heavy spices. Most dishes are boiled, steamed, roasted, or fermented. You’ll also notice that rice and meat (especially pork) are at the center of every meal, often accompanied by flavorful chutneys or pickled bamboo shoots.

Common Ingredients in Khasi Cooking

• Jai – A variety of red rice that is native to Meghalaya.

• Doh – Refers to meat. Pork (Doh Snam), beef (Doh Sniang), and chicken are widely eaten.

• Tungrymbai – Fermented soybean paste that’s used as a chutney or curry base.

• Bamboo shoots – Adds a tangy, slightly sour flavor.

• Black sesame – Used in gravies and as seasoning.

• Wild herbs – Like jali and ja stem, often found in the hills.

Top Traditional Khasi Dishes to Try

1. Jadoh – The Star of Khasi Meals

A flavorful dish made with red rice and pork, often cooked in pork blood for extra richness. It's like a Khasi version of biryani but without the intense spices. Vegetarians can enjoy variants made with vegetables or soya chunks.

2. Dohneiiong – Pork in Black Sesame Gravy

This is a rich and earthy dish where pork is cooked with black sesame seeds and local spices. It pairs beautifully with steamed rice.

3. Dohkhlieh – Pork Salad

This pork-based salad includes onions, green chilies, and sometimes boiled pig brain. It’s served cold and offers a refreshing bite, especially in summer.

4. Tungrymbai – Fermented Soybean Paste

Pungent, sticky, and flavorful, tungrymbai is one of those acquired tastes that locals swear by. It is stir-fried with onions, ginger, garlic, and pork.

5. Pumaloi – Steamed Rice Powder

This light, fluffy dish is made by steaming rice powder in a special pot. It is often served with meat curries or spicy pickles.

6. Kyat – Local Rice Beer

A fermented drink made from rice, often served during local festivals or social gatherings. It’s light, slightly sour, and best enjoyed fresh.

A Foodie's Trail: Best Places to Eat in Shillong

If you want to truly experience Khasi food, Shillong is your go-to destination. Here are some recommended spots to check out:

1. Trattoria, Police Bazaar

This small eatery serves a traditional Khasi thali with jadoh, dohkhlieh, tungrymbai, and more. Affordable and authentic.

2. Jadoh Stall, Laitumkhrah

Perfect for street food lovers. You’ll find various versions of jadoh, both veg and non-veg, with spicy chutneys.

3. Cafe Shillong Heritage

While it's more of a fusion café, they offer Khasi pork dishes in a modern setting with great views.

4. Bamboo Hut Restaurant

A cozy place where locals eat. Try their Dohneiiong and smoked beef curry.

5. Shillong’s Local Markets (Iewduh/Barabazar)

Not a restaurant, but a food lover’s heaven. You’ll find everything from smoked meats and red rice to local herbs and pickles.

Khasi Food Traditions and Culture

Eating with Hands

In traditional Khasi households, meals are eaten with hands, and food is often shared from the same platter – a sign of bonding and togetherness.

Seasonal Eating

Food in Khasi homes often changes with the seasons. During the monsoon, more fermented and smoked dishes are consumed to preserve nutrients.

Community Feasting

During local festivals like Shad Suk Mynsiem and Nongkrem Dance Festival, large quantities of traditional food are cooked and served to guests and villagers.

Health Benefits of Khasi Cuisine

Khasi food is not just tasty but also quite healthy due to minimal use of oil, spices, and preservatives.

• Low in fat – Most dishes are steamed or boiled.

• Rich in protein – Thanks to soybeans and pork.

• Gut-friendly – Fermented foods like tungrymbai promote digestion.

• Anti-inflammatory – Ingredients like black sesame and bamboo shoots have medicinal properties.

Food Festivals and Events in Meghalaya

If you're lucky, you can attend local food events during your visit:

1. Meghalaya Food Festival (Shillong)

Held annually, this festival brings together all tribal cuisines, including Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo dishes.

2. Indigenous Terra Madre Festival

Celebrated in various villages, it focuses on indigenous food systems, farming, and sustainable eating.

Tips for Food Lovers Visiting Meghalaya

• Respect local customs – Always ask before taking photos of food in village homes or stalls.

• Try everything once – Even if it's new or smells unfamiliar (like tungrymbai).

• Eat local – Skip the fast food and try eateries that serve authentic Khasi meals.

• Carry bottled water – Especially in smaller towns or roadside stalls.

FAQs About Khasi Cuisine

Q1. Is Khasi food too spicy?

Not really. Khasi food is flavorful but not extremely spicy. Most dishes use green chilies instead of red ones.

Q2. Is it safe to eat street food in Shillong?

Yes, especially in busy areas like Police Bazaar and Laitumkhrah. Look for stalls with long queues – a good sign of quality and freshness.

Q3. Can vegetarians enjoy Khasi cuisine?

Yes! While meat is popular, you’ll find many veg options like Pumaloi, rice dishes, vegetable curries, and pickles.

Q4. Where can I learn to cook Khasi food?

Some homestays in Shillong offer cooking classes or live kitchen demos. You can also ask local hosts if you're staying in a rural village.

Q5. What are some must-try non-veg Khasi dishes?

Definitely try Jadoh, Dohneiiong, Tungrymbai with pork, and smoked beef curry.

Final Thoughts: A Culinary Adventure Awaits

Khasi cuisine is more than just food – it’s a living story of the people, their history, and their bond with nature. Every meal you try in Meghalaya adds a layer to your understanding of the place and its culture. Whether it’s the spicy jadoh from a street stall or a warm bowl of tungrymbai in a local home, each bite brings you closer to the spirit of the hills.

So next time you're in Meghalaya, don’t just explore its landscapes — eat your way through it. Trust us, your taste buds will thank you!